Developing Good Field Technique

Text and photography copyright Kevin Ferris
All rights reserved

After looking at some photos I had taken of bullfrogs at a local pond, a friend asked why do I go through the trouble of working around the pond. Why don’t I just capture a few turtles and frogs, bring them home and photograph them in a controlled, natural looking setting. He noted that I could control the light and the background, and I could clean up the subjects. He argued that my chances of getting good photos were better using a controlled setting, rather than trudging around ponds and fields at sunrise.

I didn’t have a good response for him at the time. He was right. Of course I could get a greater number of good photos using his approach. In addition, I wouldn’t have to get up at 5:00 am, drench myself in tick repellent, hike about hoping to find a subject, lie in mud just trying to get close enough to get a good shot, and cross my fingers hoping for decent light.

Slow, cautious movement was necessary in order to position the tripod without disturbing this twelve spot skimmer dragonfly.

The answer didn’t come to me until a few weeks later. It was then that I realized that the lessons I learned and the techniques I developed during my photo excursions to the local parks and ponds were invaluable. The techniques I had used to get close to the local critters had often worked when I tried for bigger game in more exotic locations.

I had gone out to the field with a photographer that I photographed with several times (I will call him “Bob). Although I had seen many of Bob’s images, and I knew his photographic skills were excellent, I had never tried to photograph animals in the wild with him. Bob’s experience with animals was primarily at zoos and game farms. Very quickly it became apparent that Bob’s technique for approaching wild subjects was not likely to produce good images.

Whenever we encountered a potential subject, Bob would walk very briskly, directly toward the subject. Needless to say, it was very frustrating watching as the subjects bolted.

During my local photo treks, the basic techniques I had learned for a close approach are as follows:

1) Always go slow: Any fast movement is likely to spook your subject. In addition to mammals, birds and reptiles, this also applies to insects because they are very sensitive to movement.

Slow hand movement was essential when photographing this yellow garden spider (Argiope aurantia).

2) Waste some film: Shoot a few shots from a distance and continue to take a few shots as you approach. You don’t want to spend 30 minutes working yourself close to the subject, only to startle it with the sound of your shutter or motor drive.

Whitetail deer are naturally shy, even in areas where they're not hunted. You don't want to startle them with the sound of your camera if you get close enough for a good photo.

3) Get low: Many subjects are much more tolerant of you as long as you are not standing up. Get down on your belly or your butt.

By sitting on my behind, I was able to get very close to a pair of Least Terns on a local beach. If you stand upright, they may attack to protect their nest.

4) Don’t try to hide if it will appear like stalking: Natural subjects have better senses than you do and most likely, they know you are there. If they feel comfortable with you, they will make a much better subject. You will be able to take more photos, and often change your position (even though you are surprisingly close), as long as they are comfortable with you.

5) Watch for signs that your subject is agitated: If your subject changes what it was doing as you approach, you are probably beginning to agitate the subject and you may not be able to get close enough for the photo you want. Try to approach your subject without causing it to alter its behavior.

Box turtles will retract their heads if they feel threatened. If that happens, you could be in for a long wait before you will get a good photo.

6) Have patience: Natural subjects such as birds, mammals, reptiles and insects have their own timetables. Be willing to stop, wait, sit and watch. You may learn some valuable information just from observation (for example, what branch the subject prefers to land on, where to be positioned for the best light, etc.). After the subject seems comfortable with your position, take a few shots, and move in a little closer

Some critters make very good practice subjects.

These are all techniques I picked up while photographing in local parks around New York City, and over several years they became second nature. The subjects I photographed (dragonflies, spiders, turtles, frogs, squirrels, chipmunks and birds) would never be considered exotic. But by applying these techniques, I had developed the proper habits for approaching more “exotic” game in places like Yellowstone and Denali.